The designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have been creating a must-have label for women since 1985. Their signature corsets, leopard prints and extensive use of black creates an image that mixes fetishism with femininity. However, to overlook their menswear label would be a great mistake; for the last six years their runway shows have featured the devastatingly stunning David Gandy, helping champion the era of the masculine male model. The clothes reflect this perfectly – think sharp tailoring, a greyscale colour palette and beautiful shoes, but enhanced with mesh covered vests and jumpsuits – it’s wearable “Eurotrash” with a dusting of “fashion sex dust.”
Many of the trends seen on the Spring/Summer ’12 catwalk will transfer easily into most men’s wardrobes; a loose jumper with shorts, cuffs poking out from under a suit jacket and the eternally stylish trouser turn-up. Others, however, may find it harder to gain a place. The overalls, for example, should probably be left to the models or workmen. The label also used copious amounts of a mesh material – over jumpers, over shorts, as trousers, even as a jumpsuit. Sheer trousers over shorts may not translate into everyday menswear , but the thick mesh as a sports jacket is going to be everywhere.
The greyscale tone of the show was stunning. Starting with the deepest blacks and fading to bright white, featuring every shade of grey imaginable, it’s the perfect collection for a man afraid of colour.
The shoes were beautiful – perfectly androgynous and a style that should be easy to pick up on the high street. Silver studs on supple black leather, bronze studs on brown leather, these brogues demonstrated how a shoe can make a good outfit great.
The trousers in this show were often loose with a turn up, but a skinny variety was present, often teamed with the perfectly executed blazer. The suit jackets were impeccable as always; single breasted, double breasted, black, white, grey and with a subtly nipped-in waist to sex-up the whole look further.
Present also were the flat caps that have become a signature of the menswear label. Worn with a dress suit and loose jacket or with the overalls, it’s not for the style-cautious, but it demonstrated the duo’s Sicilian roots perfectly.
And of course, the manbag has returned. Think deep teals and browns in supple leather as well as in the mesh style. They are too large to be feminine, fit a laptop, and so work perfectly for the Dolce & Gabbana male.
This show illustrated everything Dolce & Gabbana stands for; an established brand, maintaining its wearable style and catering for men of all ages. It seems that the duo are here to stay.
Image – Millicent Wilkinson