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The NewsRoom: London Fashion Week

By Olivia Parish
Monday 19th October 2009

Label's Models Are Too Big! 


Stylists at London Fashion Week resign over use of plus-sized models. 


CHALLENGING the fashion industry’s size zero obsession, knitwear designer Mark Fast decided to challenge the norm, employing models of sizes 12 and 14 in addition to the more conventional models to showcase his figure-hugging dresses. 


Fast’s announcement of his plans led to a meltdown within his design team. Two of his stylists were left so infuriated they walked out on the designer just days before the event.  


However, Fast’s creative director, Amanda May said, “The decision to use fuller girls is something we have been talking about. There's an idea that only thin and slender women are able to wear Mark's dresses and he wanted to combat that. We wanted women to know they didn't have to be a size zero to wear a Mark Fast dress. Curvier women can even look better in them.” 


The show saw three models from the agency 12+ UK grace the catwalk, with one of the plus sized women even leading the final walk out.
Rome Rumour is “Nonsense”.


Head of the Italian Chamber of Fashion, Mario Boselli, has dismissed rumours that Milan Fashion Week is moving to Rome.
 


NEW YORK,  London, Milan, Paris… The fashion calendar. However, rumours circulating throughout the world at the beginning of the month suggest that an idea percolating in the upper echelons of the industry could see international collections moved from Milan to Rome. 


The Head of the Italian Chamber of Fashion, Mario Boselli, has dismissed the rumours as “nonsense” and denies that talks between Italian brands and government officials are taking place. 


“Nobody who knows how the fashion industry works would think Fashion Week could move from Milan”, he said. “[Milan is] the epicentre of our textile districts, a publishing hub and the city where most of our designers are based and where they have invested in showrooms and their own runway locations.” 


Despite his claim, there is evidence of support within Italian brands for such a move. Silvia Venturini Fendi of Fendi admitted that a move to the Italian capital would not be entirely illogical: “I think Rome if the perfect place for creative happenings,” she said. “Gucci is there, Valentino. We are Roman - why not?” 


This is a space to be watched. 
Brigitte Opts For ‘Real Women’


Germany’s most popular women’s magazine, Brigitte, has made the latest attempt to put an end to the “size zero” model fad. Opting for “real women“, the editors have pledged to use only women with “normal figures”. 


Editor-in-chief, Andreas Lebert, said the move is in response to the increasing number of complaints from readers concerning the “protruding bones” on models who weigh significantly less than the average woman. 


Lebert added that he was “fed up” with having to retouch pictures of underweight models to make them look like ordinary women. “For years we’ve had to use Photoshop to fatten the girls up”, he said. “Especially their thighs, and décolletage. But this is disturbing and perverse, and what has it got to do with our real reader?” 


“Today’s models weigh around 23% less than normal women”, Lebert said. “The whole model industry is anorexic.” But no longer. From 2010, "We will show women who have an identity - the 18-year-old student, the head of the board, the musician, the football player." 


In recent years, various measures have been taken in attempt to make the modelling industry more “real”. German commentators say that the move at Brigitte was inspired by British Vogue editor Alexandra Shulman's recent appeal to major fashion houses to end the "size-zero" culture. 
 


Other initiatives over the years have been seen by beauty products companies such as Dove, who launched it’s campaign for “real beauty” and “real women”. Other more radical initiatives have been seen in the fashion capitals of the world. Fashion officials at Milan set a minimum BMI for their models to combat the dangers of the skinny model trend after Brazilian model, Ana Carolina Reston, 21, died of anorexia in November 2006. 


The question is: will other magazines follow suit?